Country folk costumes in Malta : their manufacture and preservation

Abstract

An interest to carry out this study on Maltese country folk costumes emerged from the fact that these have never been studied in a multidisciplinary manner, as well as because hardly any technical information exists about them. Since the author was presented with the opportunity to carry out an object based research, it was more than appropriate to use the conservator's skills in a multidisciplinary approach by carrying out the necessary documentation through the study of the structure, material and manufacturing techniques of these costumes and indicating ways for their preservation. This study brings together existing information found in both the literature and in illustrated works in order to examine the fashion amongst the country folk category of people from the 16th and 19th century. This was the only possible approach since the costumes under study have vanished completely from our culture and, in some cases, exemplars of particular costume items no longer exist. This dissertation also treats the traditions encountered in the technical history of cotton manufacture and weaving, based on the technical investigation of the historical costumes. An attempt was also made to learn more about the craft of dying used on the Maltese Islands during that period. The costumes are thoroughly documented to investigate and unveil the construction patterns and type of stitching. The study also focuses on the scientific investigation of the type of fibres, yams and dyes used for the material construction of the costumes. This study also presents different methods used for the packing of the costumes in order to maintain and support the original form of the artefacts by making use of appropriate materials. These artefacts were placed in boxes so as to protect them while in storage or in transit.